Birth
of a Knife:
How-to filework a
fixed-blade knife
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This page is created for those
that have been wanting to know how to go about doing
filework on their fixed-blade
knife.
This is a
short archive of most of the steps involved with fileworking a fixed-blade knife with a vine pattern.
Please keep in mind that this is
only one way of very many ways to
accomplish the same thing.
What works
for me may not work for you.
I do filework with an assortment of rat-tail files. I use no automation at
all.
Several knifemakers use a dremel tool or a foredom with great results.
This is intended as a guide to get started
and
assist in basic knowledge.
Have thoughts or ideas??? Let me know.
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This is the finished
piece. Scroll down the page to view the steps taken to complete the
filework for this
piece. Below shows a close-up of the finished fileworked spine.
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The first
photograph shows the knife as ready for heat-treatment.
Filework must be accomplished before heat-treatment to save a lot of
extra work. Once the blade is heat-treated, it will take diamond cutters
to work the steel.
To learn how this knife has made it
to this point, go to
"How to make a
fixed-blade knife".
Rocket Handmade knives will offer a
number of
"How-tos" in the coming months.
Is there a
certain "How-to" that would be of interest?
Please let us know. |
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This
shows the piece, including the guard, and before heat-treatment. The part that will be fileworked
is the spine of the handle tang.
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Here
are the supplies needed to accomplish the task.
A machinists' scale (any measuring tool will work), a 3-corner or handsaw file, a 1/8" round
chain saw file, some scrap wood pieces to hold the blade in place
and the vise to hold it with. |
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This
shows the handle spine with the guard attached. A mark should be made
where the guard and handle meet. This will be the "mark of no return".
If you file past this line, you will be filing into where the guard is
soldered to the blade. Filework past this line could be a BIG problem
later. |
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Starting at where the mark was made for the guard, mark the spine as
far as you would like for it to be filed.
Marks are made
3/16" apart here all the way to the end of the tang. |
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Starting
with the handsaw or 3-corner file, file every other mark on one side. I
have highlighted in red the file impression left in the steel. The cut
is made at about a 30 degree angle. |
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Here is a
slightly larger picture. Now, the cut is made on the opposite side,
filing on the mark that was not filed from the other side. Red
highlights were made on every other filing on both sides. |
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Directly behind the cut made with the 3-corner file, make a new cut with
the round or chain saw file. Leave about 1/16" between the two cuts to
make the leaf shape later. Cut at approximately the same 30 degree angle
as the first cut. Do this on both sides. Red highlights are done on some
of the filings in the picture to better show the file cuts. |
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Sorry
about the picture quality here, but the idea is pretty clear. The first
cut (3-corner cut) is slightly rolled to make the leaf point and the
round cut is made to blend into the vine. Red highlights show the final
result. |
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This
shows the final work done to finish up the vine. Red highlights help to
distinguish the filings. Remember to make your filings pretty deep
because there will be some metal removed upon completion of the handle.
Go back and "true-up" any slips or mistakes. This blade is ready for
heat-treatment. |
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The
filework shown with the knife completed. A red vulcanized paper liner
was added to enhance the filework from the handle. |
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